Parížskym Fashion Weekom skončil maratón dôležitých týždňov módy, ktoré predstavili kolekcie pre nadchádzajúcu jar a leto 2013. A vďaka Paríži vieme, že sa na jar môžeme tešiť na veľké volánikové sukne, aké predstavila značka Balenciaga, na čiernobiely harlekýnsky štýl Balmain, na módu ako pre včeliu kráľovnú od Alexander McQueen, na minimalistickú transformáciu Christian Dior, na návrat rockových osemdesiatok tak, ako nám ich predložil Jean Paul Gaultier alebo na pestré batiky a vzory Kenzo.
Veľká fotogaléria z Paris Fashion Week – RTW kolekcie pre jar a leto 2013
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Paris Fashion Week sa honosí snáď tými najprestížnejšími návrhárskymi značkami a menami. Sledovať módu a nesledovať parížsky Fashion Week, to snáď ani nejde! Veď práve tu sa prestavia značky, ktoré poznajú aj laici: Chanel, Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano alebo Valentino. Ale to stále nie je zoznam všetkého, čo musíte z prehliadok v Paríži vidieť. Viac ako sto značiek a návrhárov znamená vidieť niečo medzi 5 až 10 tisícmi modelov. A keďže je to dosť nereálne, prešli sme túto masu outfitov a modelov za vás a vybrali sme tie najlepšie modely, ktoré sme v Paríži videli.
Balenciaga – veľký návrat sukne do dámskeho šatníka!
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Kolekcie Balenciaga pre jar a leto 2013 je plná protikladov. Oblečenie je extrémne ženské, ale používa pánske prvky. Je tvarovo pestré, ale súčasne minimalistické. A aj keď možno budete premýšľať, ako to vlastne je, jedno kolekcia povedala úplne priamočiaro: k ženám patrí sukňa! A to nie hocijaká. V kolekcii Balenciaga vás očaria veľké dlhé asymetrické sukne s obrími volánmi, asymetrické šatkové sukne z oblekoviny, minisukne v duchu Chanel elegancie, zvonové ľahké sukienky akoby dozdobené tŕním, aj úzke sukienky s vyšívanou dekoratívnou bordúrou.
Balmain – harlekýnska romantika!
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[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Oblečenie z Paríža, ktoré by ste nemali prehliadnuť, je dámska kolekcia Balmain. Na prvý pohľad máte pocit že vám pred zrakmi vyrastá francúzske ľudové divadlo a že ste uvideli jeho tradičnú postavu Pierota. V kolekcii objavíte tradičné harlekýnske prvky na mnohých modeloch – na tých čiernobielych pracujúcich s typickom symbolom kosoštvorca, ale aj na tých pletených, kde váhate, či ide o háčkovanú alebo vyšívanú čipku, alebo či sú celopletené. Kolekcia si nesie neprehliadnuteľné prvky 80. rokov: široké vypchaté ramená, rockovú symboliku osemdesiatkových hviezd, mrkváčové strihy nohavíc, skrátené blúzky aj vyšší pás.
Alexander McQueen – móda ako pre včeliu kráľovnú!
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Kreatívna riaditeľka značky, Sarah Burton, sa inšpirovala prírodou. Modelom jej stáli včely a jej kolekcia pre jar 2013 čerpá z tvarov včelích plástov, z farebnosti typickej pre včely aj z neopakovateľnej krásy celého včelieho spoločenstva.
Inšpiráciu Sarah Burton pretransformovala nielen do modelov oblečenia, ale aj do nových modelov topánok, kabeliek, šperkov i klobúkov.
Viac si o kolekcii Alexander McQueen RTW SS 2013 prečítajte v článku:
Sacai – veľká transformácia retro módy!
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[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
O značke Sacai ste možno nikdy ani nepočuli. Nad jej kolekciou sa však rozhodne stojí za to zastaviť. Mnoho modelov sa hrá skôr sa strihom, ako s materiálom a farbou. Materiálom je často len ľahká šedá oblekovina, zato strihy premenili sukňu kostýmu na zdrapy látky, saková bunda má „nefunkčný“ úpletový pás na spodnej strane bundy, kabátik má dekoratívne povrchovo našitý kontrastný zips, alebo je bunda ušitá z materiálu, hodiaceho sa skôr na spodnú bielizeň. Sacai je nádherná kreatívna kolekcia, ktorú rozhodne musíte vidieť celú!
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Tsumori Chisato – dokonalé farby v dokonalých vzoroch!
Ak máte jar a leto spojené s pestrejšími farbami oblečenia, poteší vás kolekcia Tsumori Chisato. Tá je na pestrých vzoroch a krásnych farbách založená. Oblečení v kolekcii pristane batika, ale aj drobné vzory. Kolekcia sa hrá aj s prepracovanými strihmi a tak vynikne nielen výtvarný, ale aj krajčírsky talent návrhárky značky.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Chanel – taliansky šarm a anglická kreativita!
Karl Lagerfeld zostal pri tradičnej chanelovskej elegancii, aj keď kolekciu rozhodne omladil. Sáčka, šaty, kostýmy i šperky sú prešpikované perlou ako symbolom ženskosti. Aj preto si Lagerfeld mohol dovoliť trochu humpoláckejšie, ale skvostné topánky, ktoré dopĺňajú väčšinu modelov, a ktoré majú extra hrubý opätok aj vyššiu platformu. Lagerfeld neváhal tiež šokovať. Kabelku Chanel vyrobil z kruhu na cvičenie hula hoop, klobúku dal plastovú krempu a modelkám sa nebál na ruky nasadiť svoje obľúbené bezprstové rukavice a ozdobiť ich perlami.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Christian Dior – nová éra začala módnym minimalizmom!
Extraordinárne vs. minimalistické – tak možno proti sebe postaviť modely, ktoré pre Dior robil John Galliano, a ktoré pre neho robí teraz Raf Simons. S RTW kolekciou pre Christian Dior mal teraz Raf Simons premiéru a podľa mňa uspel lepšie, než z Haute Couture kolekciou Fall 2012. Gallianovu extravaganciu však nečakajte. Simons miluje minimalizmus! Strihy sú jednoduché, farby nechýbajú, aj keď sú umiernené a silueta je príjemne ženská a po dlhej dobe, čo sme u Diora videli, aj nositeľná. Takže nezavrhujte ju, aj keď ste Gallianovi fandili!
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac – monochromatická pestrosť!
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Značka Jean-Charles de Castelbajac dokáže extravaganciu udržať na presne tej pozícii, kde ju ešte znesieme a kde nás dokáže nadchnúť. Pestrosť a kreativita nikdy neprekročia hranicu, kde už by boli modely nenositeľné. V kolekcii pre jar a leto 2013 predstavila značka vzorovo pestré a farebne monochromatické modely, ktoré kombinujú vždy jednu farbu s čiernobielymi vzormi. V kolekcii nájdeme zelené, modré i žlté modely, ale aj modely s použitím hrubého prírodného plátna. Pestré vzory vyzerajú miestami ako obrázky z Rorschachova testu, inokedy ako stránky komiksu. Farebnosť však nie je v kolekcii podmienkou a extravaganciu modelom dodávajú často metalické materiály alebo PVC časti oblečenia.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Viktor&Rolf – znovuzrodenie antiky!
Priamo antická krása vyžaruje z jarnej kolekcie Viktor&Rolf. Dlhé šaty a sukne v antickom duchu, práca s drapériou a skladané plisé, asymetria aj belostná elegancia. Do toho návrhári primiešali netradičné vlnené sukne a kabáty, ktoré sa napríklad v podobe huňatej sukne obzvláštnenej obrími strieborno-čiernymi kvetinovými aplikáciami, objavili aj vo večernej róbe. Čiernu, striebornú a bielu doplnili pastely a kolekcia si tak nesie starovekú decentnosť.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Gareth Pugh – moderná gotika, alebo móda pre Lady Gaga?
Návrhár Gareth Pugh má svojich zarytých priaznivcov, ale aj odporcov. Jeho móda s trochou dramatickosti sa vám jednoducho buď páči alebo nie. Nová kolekcia je ale veľmi vydarená a myslím, že aj tí, ktorí mu doteraz na chuť neprišli, teraz urobia výnimku. Volánové komplety v červenej, čiernej alebo v šedofialovej vyzerajú úchvatne, rovnako ako ďalšie kostýmy, kabáty a šaty.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Paco Rabanne – ako výlet do starovekého Egypta!
Inšpirácia Egyptom je síce menej revúca, ako sme to už niekoľkokrát videli v kolekciách Versace, napriek tomu však zrejmá. Okrem nádherných zdobených odevov: šiat so zlatým zdobením, vás na kolekcii upútajú topánky. Gladiátorské sandále sú na nízkom podpätku a siahajú väčšinou iba nad členok. Majú však aj svoju extra vysokú podobu. Väčšina modelov je čiernych, so zlatom alebo bez strieborných a tmavo fialových.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Haider Ackermann – módna fantázia budúcnosti
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Kolekciu Haider Ackerman možno zaradiť medzi módne kolekcie s moderným poňatím budúcnosti. Väčšina modelov je čiernych, sporadicky sa objavujú biele alebo kombinované čierno-biele modely. Oblečenie je hrou s netradičnými strihmi, ale tiež netradičná práca so vzormi, medzi nimi napríklad s pruhmi alebo s bodkami. Zaujímavá je práca s páskami, transparentnosťou, s formou použitia čipky i s transformáciou nedbalej elegancie do vysoko žensky pôsobiacich outfitov.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Jean Paul Gaultier – pocta rockovým hviezdam osemdesiatych rokov!
Gaultier je miláčikom rockových hviezd a najmä osemdesiatky sú mu blízke. Bol to on, kto obliekol Madonnu do jej kužeľovitej podprsenky a teraz na ňu nezabudol zaspomínať pre Madonnu typickými rozšafnými outfity so sexy nádychom. Spomenul si ale aj na množstvo ďalších rockových hviezd: skupinu Abba, černošskú hviezdu Grace Jones, Annie Lenox,
Boy Georga, Michaela Jacksona alebo Davida Bowieho. Odkaz na všetky tieto hviezdy nájdeme v jeho najnovšej kolekcii.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
Kenzo – očarujúce batikované vzory
Značka Kenzo predstavila strihovo voľnú kolekciu so zaujímavými prvkami. Čižmy sú zdvojené akoby zo štulpňami, modely sú voľné a pohodlné, niekde na pomedzí military a safari štýlu bez zbytočne okatých detailov upozorňujúcich na tento štýl.
[@portabletext/react] Unknown block type "externalImage", specify a component for it in the `components.types` prop
